Wairarapa – Guide for Backpackers

© Don Benny Vergara

Masterton

The main and most central town of Masterton in the Wairarapa district is a good base if you are staying in Wairarapa for a while.

The town itself boasts a boutique and cafe culture, most of which can be found in the Kuripuni Village.

You’ll also find some budget accommodation options, a feature not to be taken for granted in Wellington’s outer districts! Find out more in our Accommodation Guide to Wellington Region.

For a free thing to do in Masterton, head to Henley Lake, just east of Queen Elizabeth Park. There’s a walking and cycling track around the lake, as well as viewing towers to watch the some of the 72 species of wetlands birds.

A likely reason you have visited Masterton is to explore the Tararua Forest Park, where you can access the walking tracks from the Holdsworth area. Read on to find out more about all that good stuff!

© NZPocketGuide.com

Tararua Forest Park (from Masterson)

To get there from Masterton, turn off State Highway 2 onto Norfolk Road, south of Masterton. You’ll reach a car park, campsite (check out Where to Camp in Wellington for more info), and a whole lot of tracks from leisurely strolls to multi-day hikes through the forest to exposed hills.

With the epic views and feeling of accomplishment, there are some rewarding hikes to be had. Make sure you are fully prepared, especially for the longer hikes.

For a full guide on Tararua, check out Tararua – Guide for Backpackers. Otherwise, here are some hikes in the Tararua Forest Park.

Donnelly Flat Loop Walk (1 Hour Return)

This easy forest walk in Tararua Forest Park follows the river to Donnelly Flat, an attractive camping ground.

There’s also a 1 km (0.6 mi) nature loop for those keen to explore further. Just be mindful after rain, the track can get a bit slippery in places.

Find out more about this trail on the Department of Conservation (DOC) website.

Gentle Annie Track and River Ridge Track Loop (3 Hrs 45 Mins Return)

This scenic loop combines the Gentle Annie Track and River Ridge Track. Starting from Holdsworth Campsite, the trail takes you through lush forest, offering stunning views from Rocky Lookout.

We recommend going counterclockwise for an easier descent. Don’t forget to pack your camera for this picturesque adventure!

Holdsworth – Kaitoke Track (2-3 Days Oneway)

Embark on an unforgettable multi-day adventure through the Tararua Forest Park on the Holdsworth – Kaitoke Track. This challenging 2-3 day hike begins at the Holdsworth car park and ends at Kaitoke Road end, so you’ll need to arrange transport.

The journey kicks off with the Gentle Annie track, a well-graded walkway with scenic lookouts. Day one takes you to Totara Flats Hut (4 hours), where you can camp or use the hut facilities. The next day’s 6-hour trek to Tutuwai Hut involves river crossings and navigating the Cone Saddle Track – keep an eye out for those orange markers!

Your final day (7-8 hours) follows the Tauwharenīkau River before climbing to Puffer Saddle. Remember to book huts in advance and be prepared for all weather conditions.

Holdsworth Roadend to Powell Hut (5-6 Hours Return) or Mount Holdsworth (7-8 Hours Return)

Challenge yourself to the climb to Powell Hut or the Mount Holdsworth summit. The trail follows the Gentle Annie Track to Mountain House Shelter, then ascends through dense beech forest to Powell Hut. From there, you can continue to the Mount Holdsworth summit at 1,470 metres.

Just below Powell Hut, a rocky outcrop offers stunning views of High Ridge and Totara Flats in the Waiohine Valley. This section is also part of the popular Jumbo Circuit for those seeking a longer adventure.

Mt Holdsworth – Jumbo Circuit (2-3 Days)

For an epic multi-day adventure in the Tararua Forest Park, tackle the challenging Mount Holdsworth Jumbo Circuit. This two to three-day tramp offers a diverse range of terrain and breathtaking views from exposed ridges.

From Powell Hut, traverse to Mt Holdsworth Trig and Jumbo Peak before reaching Jumbo Hut (4 hours). The next leg takes you through lush forest to Atiwhakatu Hut (4 hours).

Exercise caution on exposed sections and ensure fine weather for the mountaintop experience. Remember, bookings and fees are required for hut stays.

For more details, check out the DOC website.

© Don Benny Vergara

Martinborough

Where winos come to get hammered! More than 20 wineries are in the Martinborough area, most of which are within walking or cycling distance.

There are several bike hire options in the town, such as Green Jersey Cycle Tours, so you can winery-hop by bike while sampling the district’s famous pinot noir.

On the subject of bikes, it’s also worth hiring a bike for the Remutaka Cycle Trail.

Although it’s 115 km (71 mi) long, sections of the trail can be accessed by the nearby Featherston and Lake Wairarapa. But if you want to do the whole trail it’s best to start in Petone in the Hutt Valley.

Otherwise, Martinborough is the gateway to Wairarapa’s south coast, featuring the Lord of the Rings location Putangirua Pinnacles and the pretty Cape Palliser, as well as heaps of freedom camping options.

Check out 15 Free Camping Spots in Wellington.

© WellingtonNZ

Putangirua Pinnacles

Arguably one of the most impressive Lord of the Rings locations, the Putangirua Pinnacles depicted Dimholt Road taken by Aragorn, Legolas and Gimli to find the Army of the Undead.

Just like everywhere in Middle-earth, getting to the Pinnacles isn’t a quick trip. There are two ways to see these rock formations with your own eyes:

The Short(ish) Way (2-3 Hours Return)

Walk along the streambed with the pinnacles towering above you or take the loop track from the stream junction to the lookout.

The Scenic Route (2-4 Hours Return)

Embark on a breathtaking half-day journey to the stunning Putangirua Pinnacles, located along the Wairarapa coastline near Cape Palliser. This spectacular site, featured in “The Lord of the Rings: The Return of the King”, boasts impressive stalagmite-like structures.

From the Pinnacles lookout, follow an uphill track for panoramic views of Palliser Bay and Lake Onoke, ending 300 metres from the entrance.

If you just can’t bear to leave the pinnacles, stay at the Putangirua Pinnacles Campsite beside Putangirua Stream for views of Cook Strait a true backpacking experience!

© NZPocketGuide.com

Cape Palliser

If the scenic drive along this stunning coast doesn’t impress then the seal colony will! Cape Palliser is the location of the North Island’s largest seal colony.

You can get pretty close to these native New Zealand fur seals, but remember to give them a bit of space. Visit from mid-November to mid-January for the chance to see seal pups.

You can’t visit Cape Palliser without climbing the 250 steps up the lighthouse. Like most New Zealand lighthouses, you’ll get amazing coastal views, but you’ll also see why there were so many shipwrecks in this part of the ocean that necessitated this lighthouse!

© Karora on Wikipedia

Castlepoint

If you just can’t get enough of those lighthouses, then you’ll find another one with incredible views, a lagoon, reef, beach and Castle Rock at Castlepoint on the east coast of Wairarapa.

The beach is popular with swimmers and surfers, with surf breaks being at The Reef, The Gap and Christmas Bay.

The lighthouse and Castlepoint Scenic Reserve is what many people come to this part of the east coast for. Take the boardwalk over the reef to see fossil shells and sometimes seals.

There is also the Deliverance Cove Track to get views from above the lagoon (1 hr 30 mins return).

A 15-minute drive north will bring you to some intriguing rock formations, known as Mataikona Rocks. Time your visit with low tide to see the spiky rows of rocks a result of sandstone compression and tectonic plate collision.